There’s long been a perception—not necessarily backed by strong
evidence—that eating steak, hamburger, lamb, and other red meat ups the
risk of heart disease. The saturated fat and cholesterol they deliver
have been cited as key culprits. A team from a half dozen U.S. medical
centers says the offending ingredient is L-carnitine, a compound that is
abundant in red meat.
According to this work, published online in the journal Nature Medicine,
eating red meat delivers L-carnitine to bacteria that live in the human
gut. These bacteria digest L-carnitine and turn it into a compound
called trimethylamine-N-oxide (TMAO). In studies in mice, TMAO
has been shown to cause atherosclerosis, the disease process that leads
to cholesterol-clogged arteries. We know that clogged coronary arteries
can lead to heart attacks.
So, case closed—don’t eat red meat? Sorry, nutritional science isn’t that simple.
“The studies of red meat and heart disease in humans are
conflicting,” says Dr. Dariush Mozaffarian, associate professor of
medicine at Harvard-affiliated Brigham and Women’s Hospital. “This new
research was well-done and compelling, but it’s too early to decide that
this molecule, TMAO, causes atherosclerosis in humans or that this is
responsible for some of the associations of meat intake and risk.”
Dr. Mozaffarian, a cardiologist and epidemiologist, studies the
health effects of dietary habits and other lifestyle factors in large
populations. His team has previously pooled the findings of the best studies available on red meat and health
and found that people who eat unprocessed red meat regularly have, at
worst, only a slightly higher risk of developing heart disease.
Unprocessed red meat includes virtually all fresh cuts of beef, pork,
lamb, and the like.
“If you look at people who eat unprocessed red meat, there is a
relatively weak association with heart disease,” Dr. Mozaffarian says.
“It’s not protective—and healthier dietary choices exist—but major harms
are also not seen.”
In the bigger picture, we do have pretty damning evidence about the
harms of eating a particular type of meat. “Processed red meats—bacon,
sausage, salami, deli meats—are associated with much higher risk of
heart disease,” Dr. Mozaffarian says.
Research at the Harvard School of Public Health has shown that people who eat the most processed meats have a higher overall risk of death.
The ultimate reason for this is not yet clear, says Dr. Mozaffarian,
but it may be the huge doses of sodium delivered by all those low-fat
deli sandwiches and salami-festooned platters.
And here comes other spoilers against the L-carnitine study:
Processed meats generally contain less L-carnitine than does fresh red
meat. Heart-healthy fish and chicken also contain L-carnitine, Dr.
Mozaffarian points out—although five to 10 times less of it than red
meat. “TMAO needs to be studied more in humans to understand the
implications for public health,” Dr. Mozaffarian says. “This new
research is very interesting but is not yet the final word.”
To further complicate matters, a study published online today in the Mayo Clinic Proceedings
suggests that supplements of L-carnitine may help heart attack
survivors reduce the chances of dying prematurely or reduce symptoms of
angina (chest pain with exertion or stress).
L-carnitine supplements: “Think three times before taking”
There’s still a long way to go before we know the full story about L-carnitine and heart disease. Even so, the Nature Medicine
report is very important, Mozaffarian says. It suggests that regularly
eating red meat boosts the number of L-carnitine-loving bacteria in your
gut. “It’s the best demonstration so far of two-way communication
between ourselves and the bacteria in out gut: what we eat affects the
bacteria, and what they do with what we eat can influence health.”
“Based on the Nature Medicine study, I’d be concerned about
taking L-carnitine supplements,” Dr. Mozaffarian says. “There was no
strong reason to take such supplements before the study, and now this
well-done study suggests there may be harm. I would definitely think
three times before taking an L-carnitine supplement.” The studies in the
Mayo report were mostly small with short follow-up, and included only
heart attack survivors.
Of course, there are reasons to avoid eating red meat that aren’t
directly related to individual health. Cattle farming has devastating
environmental effects, including production of greenhouse gases, water
pollution, and deforestation. “Health effects in humans aside, red meat
consumption is clearly bad for the health of our planet,” says
Mozaffarian.
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